Unauthorized Service Tomtom

Joined
Sep 1, 2013
Messages
12
Location
Poland
TomTom Model(s)
Xl2 8GB. XXl IQ 8GB. Go 930
I have tomtom unauthorized service. With more opportunities I will try to answer questions in order to help.

Best Regards.
 
Attempted to use the link for http://www.tomtomservice.com.pl/en both directly and from the button on the web page, but was just returned to http://www.tomtomservice.com.pl
The German button doesn't seem to work, either. Might want to talk to your web designer about that.

I'd be curious to know what the typical charges are for some of the items you list below, in Euros.

For those that are wondering what the Polish means on the OP's web page, here is an approximate translation of a couple of his pages:


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
We have been repairing TomTom equipment since 2005, from the first models of the TomTom One to the very latest.
We have most of the parts and components. We have adequate facilities so that service turnaround time is really short.
What characterizes us is our express time to repair.
Repair facilities using pseudo-experts often are unable to fix the unit, often damaging them even more ...

Services offered:

- Replacing the charging system
- No connection to the computer / device is not recognized.
- No backlight Matrix
- Replace the USB
- No reaction to connection to PC (only green LED)
- No GPS Signal
- Bad memory
- Damaged Bootloader
- The 'Red X' displayed
- Replace the display / touch screen
- "Hanging" when setting the clock
- Seat Replacement ribbons Display
- Increasing the memory up to 4GB / 8GB
- Exchange on / reset

Please use the form as it provides the fastest and most reliable form of contact. Please describe the defect and give the exact name of the device. After inspecting the unit, we will first provide you with an estimate of the cost, and will only taking action afterward. The services rendered include a written warranty for a period of 12 months
 
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SFO is a long way from Poland, but the only services seem to be on their side of the Atlantic. One such source that delves deeply into the parts business is here: http://www.tomtomrepairteam.co.uk/spare-parts/

We can get a few matching items through Digikey or Mouser here.
 
Yes. Follow either with a ".com" and you'll get a wealth of info. However, you may need to do some cross-reference work to find the right part. Might try the previous source first to establish P/N, then see if you can turn up identical or cross on one of those two sites.
 
SFO is a long way from Poland, but the only services seem to be on their side of the Atlantic. One such source that delves deeply into the parts business is here: http://www.tomtomrepairteam.co.uk/spare-parts/

We can get a few matching items through Digikey or Mouser here.

Thanks, one of the few places I have ever seen that sells the bare ZIF connector. Of course, you then need a hot air station to reflow it.
 
Actually, the ZIF flex connector can be done without a reflow operation, but it requires a deft touch and a little practice. Back in 1995 or so, I was shown how it can be done manually by a friend in Japan while I was working a project with them for a few weeks. When he first did it with an expensive (and scarce) fine pitch Hitachi SH2 OTP processor, I like to died when he started the process... Of course, it only works where the contacts are fully exposed, but that's the case with this connector. BGA and stuff like that are another problem entirely. Of course, it also requires at least a half decent solder mask to do this.

Tack down each end (or on the processor, opposite corners) with a bit of solder to hold it into correct position on the pads. Solder is then applied evenly but completely across the entire line of contacts. Apply just enough solder to fully wet all the contacts. You'll be creating one massive solder bridge across the whole lot of them.

Then, go back with some fine solder wick to pick up all of the excess. The solder that has worked its way under the contacts (capillary action) remains to make the connection to the pads. All of the bridges you have created are picked up with the solder wick. Inspect under magnification to sure no bridges remain.

I was ASTOUNDED to watch this process actually work, and work well.
 
Ever heard of "re-balling"?
Technique is getting quite common for small-scale repair companies on things like mobile phones and games consoles. Some fascinating videos of it on YouTube.

About my trickiest resolder job was when I had to swap out a 6"x2" plasma display from an Ampex video recorder with about 300 pin connections, but they were just around the four edges. All this grid-array stuff looks too scary to me.
 
Heh, heh. Saw that roll of solder wick on the table and knew where we were going, though your approach of adding the solder with the wick was something I haven't tried. As many times as I've done fine pitch with wick since Negishi-san showed it to me, I'm still amazed it works as well as it does.

Nice job on the removal, even if you did have to 'take one for the team' with that knife blade. I'm impressed that you could keep your thumb on it that long. Must have been pretty hot. I usually use a very thin piece of stainless steel shim stock for this. No chance of slicing myself.
 

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