TomTom XL Fuse Blown. Green Light But No Charge one way you are right, but in another way I don't argee: a zener has one function: prevent and lead back voltage (peaks) when it goes above the trigger value. But a zener is constructed to manage voltages that not hardly can occur in a car, like 40-50V (or even higher). Agree?

My charger is also not a chineese made inexpensive one, it was made in the UK.

I'm more into the theory that the charging of the battery (that is original and weak) is causing a currency-peak that is higher then the components can handle.
No, do not agree. Zeners are constructed with avalanche voltages of every value you could imagine, many of which are FAR less than the 40~50V you mention. A 5.6V zener would make sense, since the output of the charger is nominally 5V. So a 5.6V zener allows for a small and non-destructive continuous overvoltage from the charger without causing the zener to conduct all the time.

We've seen dozens upon dozens of battery failures here that have required replacement by the owner that caused no component failures on the board. Further to this, a lithium ion charging circuit will protect itself (and you, since these packs can be pretty volatile when abused) from an overcurrent condition.
Hi guys,

If you don't mind I would like to borrow this thread as wel. Have a very similar situation after connecting the wrong charger to my Tom Tom XL. After disassembling I saw that a different component got fried. Please two photos attached.

As I'm not an electronics expert, I was looking for advice how I can best fix this? Can I easily replace this my self, can I buy a complete new PCB, or should I just suck it up and visit the repair shop.

Thanks in advance for your help!




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