Rider not charging - hard wired bike mount


Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
2
Where to change this "Drive Mode"???

I read with glee than perhaps you had the same problem as myself.
In your post you say that:
"Due to the complexity of their "Drive Mode", you can't charge the GPS Rider on a motorcycle without it moving into Drive Mode".

Can you say how to move it into "Drive Mode"?
I have searched the manual and through the preferences menus but cannot find any reference to this "Drive Mode".

Thanks

Martin
 
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Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
4
Location
southeastern PA
TomTom Model(s)
Rider
I hard-wired my TT Dock to my handlebars back in '07' and know the connections are correct. Turning-on the ignition has always caused the TT to boot-up and run, which is a convenient feature. Unfortunately though, whenever I've attempted to turn-off theTT while still connected to the dock, it has always started right-back up again. If the bike's running and the TT's in it's dock, the TT's running as well. This can be annoying when riding locally, and trying to conserve energy.

As for it's ability to charge while docked, I've never taken notice. I've only assumed that it has been, though will put on some reading glasses the next-time I place it in the dock to verify...

Rubber-side down!
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2009
Messages
96
Location
New Zealand
TomTom Model(s)
RIDER V2
I have just received a brand new dock from Tomtom having sent my faulty one for repair. Unfortunately no explanation what was wrong with the old one. My hard wired set up has the dock wired through a relay that kills power to the dock when the ignition switch is turned off. I have heard that back EMF can occur when the relay opens and am wondering if this may have caused the fault. If so, the new dock will suffer the same fate unless Tomtom have altered the circuitry of the dock ... am I worrying unnecessarily? Any electronics guru able to tell me how to prevent the back EMF???

PC
 
Joined
Apr 11, 2009
Messages
4
In Australia...Tomtom provide a 2 year warranty. I am now getting my Docking Mount inspected (not charging), and anticipate a new one being sent back.

Will try the "tape" fix when it gets here.
Received mine yesterday....provided with a replacement.

I have my charging lead installed direct from the battery, with an inline 5amp fuse. I believe this is the preferred method. This way, the GPS remains powered up even though the ignition is turned off. Need it this way for my Long Distance riding....
 
Joined
Jun 13, 2009
Messages
1
Rider 2

I thought I was alone with my rider 2 not charging on the bike doc - works fine in the car. Phoned tomtom and to their credit they have sent me a new bike doc FOC - even though the device is well out of warranty. Its strange, I get power to the plug (connected to the bike - BMW GSA) via an accessory socket but no power seems to make it through to the tomtom. It used to power up when the ignition was turned on but no more. Anyway, the new bike doc arrived but still the same issue.

I had tried to open the old doc to see what could have possibly have gone wrong - but the allen screws are a strange size and so I couldn't get in to see.

The batter icon says charging when in the car but nothing on the bike - all very frustrating!:confused:
 
Joined
Jun 26, 2009
Messages
5
Location
Anchorage, Alaska
TomTom Model(s)
Rider 2nd Edition
Rider 2nd Edition not charging while in the bike dock

I briefly thought I had a wiring issue with my bike dock, however the issue in my case was that the contact pins on the dock weren't making a good connection to my Rider. I redocked my Rider, making sure that it clicked in positively and even pressed the undocking tab a few times to make sure it was on the dock correctly. Everyone should verify this should this problem start to occur on their Rider. Good luck!
:)
 
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Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
2
The charging problem is a simple design flaw - how to fix it

Having had the same problem as a lot of people (Rider 2 not charging), I decided I should have a go at fixing it as I don’t have time to wait for a replacement or even for one if I buy because I need my bike every day.

Checking voltages, I have 12V at the connector to the mount (pushed wire in to be able to get the multimeter on it). But only about 1V at the gold pins (it seems the outer pins are the ones of interest). As it says on the mount, there should be 5V at this point. As it has 12V in and 5V out with no evidence of a heatsink to disperse the 14W that will be lost by a simple voltage regulator, I have to assume something more complex in side.

Taking the unit to bits is easy (saw through one of the pins that the contact plate tilts on), will be able to knock the pin out and replace with a new one made from anything the right size. Undo the 4 x screws and there you have a small circuit board (I was right that it’s not a simple voltage regulator).

No sign of anything obvious, so time to put some volts on the board. Feeding 12V to it, I still have only 1V on the gold pin. However, on the other side of the board where the gold pins are soldered to the board, I have 5V. This suggests the problem is in the spring loaded contact pin… but what can go wrong, it’s gold plated so even if water got in, it would still work. Carefully removing the black plastic pin holder (no need to undo the solder for the pins, they aren’t physically connected, the black plastic holder is simply glued in place with a rubber silicon type compound. Use a sharp knife to cut through the silicon then a screw driver to lift the mount. Be ready for the pins dropping out, do it over a clean surface and fairly close to stop the pins bouncing away should they fall.

Once removed, I found the design flaw. Like I said, the pins are gold plated, so are the bits the pins slide in and out of. However, guess what the springs are made of… the springs that push the gold pins up to make contact with the pads on the bottom of the Rider. STEEL!!!!! And what happens to steel when it gets wet??? And how good an insulator is rust? Very good! Well, good enough to drop 5V down to 1V.

Good thing the contacts are gold plated, the rust doesn’t stick too well to gold, a rub and it’s gone. But what do I do about the spring that’s no good any more? I haven’t got one that size to hand… I guess I could use one from one of the middle two contacts (not sure what they are for). Putting it all back together, remembering to seal the plastic contact holder because the contacts themselves are not sealed. Screw the case together and try it out. IT’S WORKING, I just saved myself 50 quid! Only thing I haven’t thought of yet is the pin I put the saw through. Hmm, found a nice nail about the right size. Cut it to length, pushed it in and used some epoxy to make sure it won’t fall out.

People seem to be scared to try and fix things these days, maybe because they don’t understand electronics. I guess I’m lucky that I was trained in electronics, so have a reasonable understanding, but last time I designed a circuit was about 12 years ago. Things have changed a lot in that time and I doubt I would have tried to do any more if the fault was in the circuit. At the end of the day, I had nothing to loose and with the problem being a simple mechanical connection problem it was an easy fix. If it’s not charging and there’s no chance of you getting a freebie from TomTom, give it a go!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Messages
1
Hi,

I've just joined the ranks of TTRV2 owners having bought a unit via an eBay auction. Everything worked fine as I rode my 1989 FZR Thou up from Lagos, Portugal, back to the UK but then I noticed the battery indicator flashing at me. The problem seemed to be with my TT bike dock not charging the TT.

I checked that there was 12 volts at the plug but there was nothing on the gold pins. I had electrical continuity on the two right hand pins to earth but nothing on the other two. So, like 'Al Capone', I decided to take mine apart! I found that there was a small coil of wire on the circuit board and that it appeared to be flopping about in the breeze as one of the soldered ends of the coil had become detached from the circuit board. I re-soldered the wire joint and .......still nothing! I rang my brother who also has a TTRV2 and he said that he too had experienced the same thing and that the 'TT Forums' were full of tales of busted bike docks! He added that he rang TT Customer Service and a 'very nice man' sent him a replacement dock which has worked OK. With nothing to lose, I rang up the 'very nice man' and they too sent me a new bike dock!

Having just read Al Capone's post, I think that I'll take the old one apart again and have a look at those pins / springs. I wonder if I can find any brass or non-ferrous springs with which to replace the original steel items? If so, I could then have a spare TT bike dock in case the unthinkable happens again..............!!
 
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
65
Godd news.

Interesting that TT is now going to replace an item that they previously would not sell and/or is not available for sale.
 
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
9
Location
Australia
TomTom Model(s)
Rider 2
Fix Your Tomtom Rider 2 Docking Station

Great Post Alcapone - you helped me save $170 Au as TT would not replace my charger (2 mths out of warranty)...

NOTE TO ALL: If in warranty, CLAIM at first sign of trouble (it will break)...


Some pics for Alcapones notes...

Taking the unit to bits is easy (saw through one of the pins that the contact plate tilts on), will be able to knock the pin out and replace with a new one made from anything the right size. Undo the 4 x screws and there you have a small circuit board (I was right that it?s not a simple voltage regulator).

To do this I opened the gap between the housing by jamming a few coins in-between the moving parts. I used a hack saw blade to cut the pin with minimal damage to the plastic. Note: there are 2 pins (not 1 going all the way through...)

Carefully removing the black plastic pin holder (no need to undo the solder for the pins, they aren?t physically connected, the black plastic holder is simply glued in place with a rubber silicon type compound. Use a sharp knife to cut through the silicon then a screw driver to lift the mount. Be ready for the pins dropping out, do it over a clean surface and fairly close to stop the pins bouncing away should they fall.

Don't worry about cutting thru the connectors - they are quite robust. I attacked from the accessible side and then the ends eventually prising off with a small screw driver...

BoardwoConnector.jpg


connectorass.jpg


Once removed, I found the design flaw. Like I said, the pins are gold plated, so are the bits the pins slide in and out of. However, guess what the springs are made of? the springs that push the gold pins up to make contact with the pads on the bottom of the Rider. STEEL!!!!! And what happens to steel when it gets wet??? And how good an insulator is rust? Very good! Well, good enough to drop 5V down to 1V.

Same - except my springs seem to be gold plated.... still it died... one of the pins was quite badly corroded as well... (TT must be using a 2nd rate kinda gold...)

Connector.jpg


Good thing the contacts are gold plated, the rust doesn?t stick too well to gold, a rub and it?s gone. But what do I do about the spring that?s no good any more? I haven?t got one that size to hand? I guess I could use one from one of the middle two contacts (not sure what they are for).

As far as I am aware they are to tell the TTR2 that it is docked in the bike charger... I removed the middle 2 pins and used them for the power. This means I had 2 holes to plug...

Putting it all back together, remembering to seal the plastic contact holder because the contacts themselves are not sealed. Screw the case together and try it out. IT?S WORKING, I just saved myself 50 quid! Only thing I haven?t thought of yet is the pin I put the saw through. Hmm, found a nice nail about the right size. Cut it to length, pushed it in and used some epoxy to make sure it won?t fall out.

Before you put it together make sure you have the pins the right way around... I put them in backwards on my 1st attempt and one of the springs got stuck and is now FUBAR (stretched such that it is no longer a spring).

Short end of the pin makes contact with TT - long end of pin has spring around it and makes contact with charger... (at least this is what worked for me...)

Assembled.jpg
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2009
Messages
96
Location
New Zealand
TomTom Model(s)
RIDER V2
Nice post Tribos .... great to have some photos to see what is going on!! I sure hope that Tomtom are aware of the corrosion problem and take steps to rectify it else the replacement docks will surely fail as well.

PC
 
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Joined
Nov 10, 2009
Messages
1
Replaced six docks, four supplied free by Tom Tom. There are various design faults with this docking device. No matter how many you replace you will not permenantly solve the problem. I have modified my mount by drilling and boulting the flexible plastic over clamp to the GPS. I have also made a spring clip which locates on the dock in the rectangular open section above the electrical input plug and then clips over the lip of the GPS. This holds the device securely in place and so far seems to be working. I have had many many contacts with Tom Tom. In the last one they sugested the problem was caused by vibration due to the size of my bike a CB1300. I have now given up on them and will get a Zumo next. Garmin have a much better costomer service,
Dave.
 
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
65
Replaced six docks, ................. In the last one they sugested the problem was caused by vibration due to the size of my bike a CB1300............. Dave.

So its the bike that did it. :p What a case of denial at TomTom. :eek: I thought the Rider 2 was made for bikes. Next time get the Garmin.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2010
Messages
5
It can't only be vibration or corrosion

It can't only be vibration and/or corrosion, 'cause my TTRV2 isn't charging on the bike and it's brand new out of the box and hasn't gone anywhere out of the garage yet! I've got 13V at the connector end of the power cable but no charging activity. It charges perfectly well on the mains house charger.

I guess I'll be contacting TT shortly.

Cheers, Steve
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
9
Location
Australia
TomTom Model(s)
Rider 2
@Steve

Mate - what is the voltage across the outside connectors on the charging dock? From memory it should be 5V... if you have the 5V it might be the TT instead of the dock...

Cheers, Steve
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2010
Messages
5
@Steve

Mate - what is the voltage across the outside connectors on the charging dock? From memory it should be 5V... if you have the 5V it might be the TT instead of the dock...

Cheers, Steve

Thanks for the pointer Steve. Just been and checked and no, I have buggr all on the output. 13.4 V in, nowt out. So it's definitely the Dock.

Cheers, Steve
 
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Joined
Feb 24, 2009
Messages
96
Location
New Zealand
TomTom Model(s)
RIDER V2
Your symptoms are exactly the same as those I experienced when my dock died. It was replaced by Tomtom, but they never responded to my request for information as to what the problem was. I suspect that reverse current applied to the dock had caused the fault in my case - ie. + connected to the - cable. This happens when the relay that I connected the power supply to the dock to, disconnects the power supply. It is referred to as "back EMF". My set up worked fine for months, then suddenly it just stopped charging. As I stated, Tomtom replaced the dock and I replaced the relay in my circuit with back EMF protection. I have had no problems since ...... to date.

PC
 
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
9
Location
Australia
TomTom Model(s)
Rider 2
Thanks for the pointer Steve. Just been and checked and no, I have buggr all on the output. 13.4 V in, nowt out. So it's definitely the Dock.

Cheers, Steve

If it's new return it, check the cable that plugs into the dock for corrosion too.

But what you describe is exactly what I had... for me the cause was the corroded spring (see pictures). See if you can improve the situation by moving the pins around (if you're curious). Have fun...

Cheers, S
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2010
Messages
5
Well, I have to say that, aside from the irritation of the Dock not working straight out of the box, dealing with TomTom Customer Service [in theUK] has been an entirely painless experience. Registered the problem on line, answered a couple of e-mails seeking details [purchase date, serial number, etc] and a replacement dock [that works] arrived in the post in a couple of days. The build quality of the Dock may be an issue [going by this thread] but I have no complaints about TomTom after-sales service.

Thanks for the help you guys gave.

Cheers, Steve
 
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